Badly translated, but still helpful instrucions here.
Dymond D47S 6 gram servos
These plastic gear bushing analog servos cost $20 each. this is a very high cost servo for one of my builds. The servos are recommended by the DLG community, and they are one of the few options for an 8mm thick servo which is required for this 11mm thick wing. I could have used cheaper servos for the Rudder and Elevator, but they would have weighed more. Dymond D47 on Servo Database.
Also note wood the fixture in the background - bolts to the wing saddle to maintain longitudal and axial alignment when gluing the fuseloge to the tail boom - very clever.
Hardware, Assembly Fixture and Electronics
Wing joiner carbon fiber rod
Launch pin carbon fiber rod
Heat shrink tubing for pushrod tubes
Elevator incidence setting fixture
Showing the Rudder and Elevator servo mounts.
Checking Horizontal Stabilizer Alignment
Using Kevlar thread w/ tape markers to ensure stabilizer is square to the tail boom.
Elevator incidence is set by supporting other end of tail boom w/ supplied fixture on a smooth, flat surface.
Taping Parts Down for Epoxy Cure
Taping the parts down to insure alignment while the glue cures.
You can see the fixture that supports the tail boom and sets horizontal stabilizer incidence at the end of the boom opposite the horizonatal stabilizer
Weights to Keep it Flat
Bag of rice flatens the tail boom surface so I can add weight to insure good flat contact.
First Build Error
Glued Vertical Stabilizer in without fully understanding the attachment method. Cut covering close and glued it in the slot w/ CA ("502 glue" in translation) per instructions. Was going to put the "screws" instructions referred to in later.
Actually, the "screws" were a bad translation of carbon tow, which spans between the tail boom and the vertical stabilizer. This required cutting through the cured CA and the covering to expose the balsa for good glue adhesion.
Covering Trimmed for Carbon Tow
Removed covering so I could glue the carbon tow over the joint between the tail boom and the vertical stabilizer.
Carbon Tow on Top of Joint
Putting this on is tricky. Add CA and push the carbon tow into it. Be careful not to CA yourself to the plane. Add CA on top of the carbon tow. remove excess w/ paper towel. DO NOT use a cotton swab.
Carbon Tow on Bottom
Gluing Fuselage Pod to Tail Boom
Wood fixture ensures that the pod and boom are in axial alignment and that the wing saddle is parallel to the horizontal stabilizer.
This ARF is going together quite easily and well. This is a very nice ARF for $123 delivered to your door. By all accounts, the SPECTRE flies well too.
Gluing Pod to Boom Alternate View
Low Voltage Warning Circuit
This is the prototype low voltage warning circuit. It buzzes and lights an LED when battery voltage drops below 3.7 volts/ cell. For more information read this construction article.
Electric/ Electronic Parts
Here are the low voltage warning circuit, the receiver, radio system battery (later replaced with a 350 mah battery) and switch jack.
New 350 mah Battery
More weight needed in the nose, so use a bigger battery for some of it.
2 OZ Fierglass and Finishing Epoxy
These are for reinfocing the areas weakened by cutting holes in the fuselage.
Cutting Buzzer Hole in Fuselage
The buzzer produces 85 DB at 12", which is quite loud, even when the plane is in flight and therefore not very close to you. A small hole in the fuselage is required to let the sound out. Without the hole, the sound pressure would be dramatically reduced.
Note that the location of this hole and therefore the buzzer was the second major build mistake. The buzzer is located under the access hole intended to receive the wing servo connectors. Putting the buzzer here made the tight quarters even tighter.
Reenforced Hole for Buzzer
2OZ fiberglass has been epoxied over the area to reenforce the it after it has been weakend by cutting the hole.
Finding Centerline on Bottom of Fuselage
Using a thread to find the center-line. This line is for the 2 LEDs that will be mounted in the bottom of the fuselage. One indicates that the radio system is on and the other indicates that the low battery warning is activated.
Switch Jack Hole
This hole is for mounting the switch jack. The switch jack incorporates a switch that turns the radio system off when a plug is inserted into the jack. The 3 conductor jack also enables balance charging the 2 cell lipo battery without removing it from the DLG.
Holes for LEDs
Reienfocement Cleared from Hole
Hole redrilled after renfoceing fiberglass around it has cured.
Reenforcing Switch Jack Hole
Applying fiberglass and epoxy for reenforcement.
Switch Jack Reenforcement
Renforcing LED Holes
Switch Jack Parts
Lite ply piece enables recessing the switch jack so it does not stick out of the side of the fuselage.
Switch Jack Lite Ply Platform
Glued in w/ epoxy and microballons.
Glassed Over Lite Ply Platform
Test Fitting Switch Jack
Switch Jack with Wires
Note green material comming out of the heat shrink tube. It is liquid electrical tape. This was a mistake. It made a mess, but I was able to clean it up.
Power Wire Harness
Balance jack connects to battery balance plug.
Switch jack enables balance charging and power switch.
Standard servo/ power plug connects to receiver battery port.
Power Connections and Wing Servo Wires
Green object is low voltage warning circuit. LEDs will later be mounted in holes.
Wing Servo Wires
As you may know, the set of red and black (or brown) wires are all electrically connected together for all servos (on a normally wired model). This means you can eliminate all but one set of these wires going to a removable structure like a wing provided the power wires you do use can handle the current required for all the servos. You do need a separate signal wire for each servo (white or yellow or orange). This means you need 2 (adequately sized) power wires and 1 signal wire per servo going to a removable part of the plane. For example, this 2 servo wing needs 4 wires
The buzzer is glued it. Its "sound hole" is lined up with the hole in the fuselage. I put a piece of heat shrink tubing in the buzzer sound hole to prevent glue getting in the buzzer during installation. I removed the heat shrink tubing when the glue had started to set, but before it fully set. As I mentioned before, this buzzer location was a mistake because it gets in the way of the wing servo plugs.
Assembling Battery Jack
The battery jack is a 2 cell balance jack. I used a balance lead extension, but the wire was too heavy (too stiff), so I replaced it with a piece of servo wire. Note that the plastic housing of these connectors softens when you solder it. To maintain pin alignment, put a plug in the jack and be quick with the soldering iron.
Finished Power Wiring Harness
Radio System Mock Up
Battery, power harness, battery, switch jack, receiver and sample servo.
Low Voltage Warning Circuit
Low voltage warning circuit in installed position. Held in place with a dab of Goop adhesive.
Wing Servo Plugs
Later replaced with JST 2 pin connectors. 2 connectors to carry the 4 wires. Male and female on fulelage and oposite in wing to avoid incorrect plug ins.
Wing Servo Connections
Final wing servo connector configuration.
Rudder and Elevator Servos In
Switch Jack Installed
Soldering Z Bend to Pushrod
Pushrods are too small to prperly engage holes in servo arms. Soldering ends on resolves issue. Wire wrap aids assembly and dramatically increases stength once soldered.
Pushrod w/ Z Bend Installed
Holding Elevator Neutral
Installing Elevator Control Horn
Ruidder Pushrod Connection
Wooden wedge comes in the kit.
Heat shrink tubing comes in the kit and enables gluing the end of the PTFE pushrod tube to the wooden wedge.
Clevis provides mechanical adjustment at the expense of about 1/2 gram weight.
Holding Rudder Neutral
Preparing to Glue Servos In
I hate gluing servos in, but it is the best option for this plane.
Note dental floss under servo. Makes it easier to remove servo if necessary.
Both Servos Glued In
Gluing Wing Panels Together
Carbon joiner tube reenforces joint.
Glassing Wing Joint
Pre-cut fiberglass pieces come in kit.
Yet More Glassing
Glass All Wetted Out
Blotting Excess Resin
Mostly helps by staying out of the way...mostly.
More Precise Blotting
Wing Bottom Glassing Complete
"Neat" Work Area
Note sponge supporting wing and plasic wrap to protect surfaces.
Wing Bolt Reenforcement
These carbon fiber tubes keep wing bolts from damaging wing.
Wing Bolt Tubes Installed
For Glassing step: note that tapered fiberglass piece wraps over front of wing and covers the top and bottom partially.
Wrapping Up Denatal Floss
Balsa stick stores dental floss out of the way.
Dental Floss Stowed
A drop of Goop secures balsa stick w/ dental floss ready for the day the servo dies.
Goop Thinned with Xylene
PTFE pushrod tubes must be secured to tail boom. Tape is an option, but if you want to glue it, your options are limited.
PTFE Tubes Temporarily Attached
Sewing thread binds psuhrod tubes to tail boom. Threads are tightened tounaquete style with toothpicks and masking tape.
Close Up of PTFE Tube Binding
PTFE Tubes Ready for Gluing
Clean everything with isotropyl alcohol prior to binding and gluing.
Syrenge and Needle for Goop Mixture
Can be purchased at a plastics supplier like Regal Plastics.
Gluing PTFE Tubes
Using syrenge and a Visa-Visor to apply the Goop mixture.
Yet More Gluing
Holding Alieron at Neutral
On the inboard end.
Holding Aileron at Neutral (Outboard End)
Nylon Wing Bolt is Too Long
Put a nut on it (M4) and cut off.
Cutting Wing Bolt
Nylon wing bolt goes in the back.
Cut Wing Bolt
Materials for Balasting
Microballons, lead shot, epoxy and waxed paper.
Ready to Add the Mixture
Adding the Mixture
Adding More Mixture
Yes, it is as messy as it looks.
Scraping the Sides
Tamping the Balast Down
I followed the ballast mixture with a thin layer of pure epoxy to cap it off and provide a smooth, strong surface.
Use of microballons in ballast may seem paradoxical. I did it so I might be able to remove the balast if that ever becomes necessary.
Soldering Charging Plug
3 pin mini plug connected to 2 cell balance plug. This enables balance charging without removing the battery from the model. Don't worry, I'm only charging at 1C. This means I never have to remove the canopy unless something breaks.
Liquid Electric Tape on Connections
Liquid electrical tape prevents shorts. This is necessary because connections are designed for a round, shielded cable. Extra insulation is required with seperate wires.